Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
